Monthly Archives: June 2010

Steve Millen and the STILLEN team have returned home from the Spectre 341 Challenge.  We had a great trip and we are already thinking of ways to improve the car for next year and see what kind of car I (Kyle Millen) can bring up there to compete in!  The team at Spectre did a great job for their first event and we are really looking forward to heading back next year!


Photo courtesy of Larry Chen / Spectre 341

The GT-R finished 2nd overall, missing the top time by 1 second. Next year we’ll be bringing back some Dunlops and should be able to pick up at least 5 or 6 seconds.  Unfortunately the Bridgestone run flats did not offer enough grip for the hill climb.  But, we knew that going into the event as the Dunlop tire is the NISSAN recommended performance tire.  Unfortunately they were out of stock though so we had to run the Bridgestone’s.

Looks like cell phone coverage is decent out in Virginia City where STILLEN and Steve Millen are running the GT-R at the Spectre 341 Challenge. We’ll use this blog post as a place to post updates and photos we get back from the team.  We’ll have a full recap after the event ends.

Friday 6/25 – 11:20am (Kyle via text)

Phone works okay.. no real updates.. did drivers meeting this morning and the drivers got a tour of the race course with tips from Amir from Spectre

The HRE Porsche is pretty nice and looks well prepared and the LG Vette is nice.. light weight good tires.. all good

There’s a hearse here too!  I don’t know about it though.. I think they are just here

Friday 6/25 – 11:43am (Kyle via text)

The hearse now has numbers.. looks like it’s running!

20mm H&R TRAK+ DRS Rear Spacer installation on 2010 Nissan 370Z

Tools Required:

  1. 21mm deep socket for lug nut removal
  2. 2 x (12×1.25) open ended lug nut for stud removal and installation
  3. 19mm open ended wrench to remove brake calipers
  4. Needlenose pliers
  5. Wire or cable ties to support brake caliper while installing spacers
  6. Stack of washers to install studs
  7. 3lb sledge for easy stud removal
  8. Jack stands to support vehicle
  9. Anti-seize compound for back of spacers

Preparation:

Wash vehicle wheels wells and suspension to aid in installation and remove dirt. Remove your spacers from the packaging and check you have all parts.

Installation:

1)  Jack up the rear of your vehicle and position the jack stands to support the rear end. Make sure the park brake is NOT set and the vehicle is on a level surface. Block the front wheels from rolling.

2)  Remove the rear wheel. You should see this:

If you have trouble turning the rotor at this point, you may need to open the rubber dust cap on the parking brake adjustment hole and back the star wheel off a few clicks, or until the rotor turns freely. This will allow the rotor to come off easily. Most rotors should not need this adjustment though.

3)  Remove the two 19mm bolts securing the caliper to the rotor. If your rotors are not worn, you should be able to slide them off easily. Support the caliper in place with some wire or cable ties so the brake line is not strained.

4)  The rotor should now slide off the studs. If it is difficult to move, tap it with a RUBBER mallet to loosen it. It should come off easily.

5)  You should now see the rear park brake assembly and you will need to remove the tensioning spring with a pair of needlenose pliers.

6)  Remove the star wheel spacer carefully, it is a two piece unit and place it on the ground in the same orientation as it will go back in.

7)  Thread one of the open ended lug nuts onto a stud and tap lightly with the mallet. It should pop out easily. Rotate the hub to allow the stud to be removed. (Note: the following picture is from the front assembly but is the same idea!)

8)  Insert the new stud from behind the hub and at a slight angle.

Do one stud at a time to avoid them catching on the brake shoes as the hub spins around.

9)  After the stud is through, slide the washers over the new stud and place an open ended lug nut onto the new stud (again the picture is from the front install, but is the same idea)

10)  Tighten the new stud into place. Be careful to follow the manufacturers torquing specifications.

11)   Replace the star wheel assembly and the tensioning spring. The finished hub should look like this when all the studs are in and tightened.

12)  Remount the rotor and lubricate the rear of the spacer with anti-seize compound. Tighten down the spacer and rotor with a couple of washers and the open ended lug nuts.


13)  Remount the brake caliper in the reverse sequence as disassembly and remove the open ended lug nuts and washers. Remount the wheel and torque wheels to manufacturers specs. You are now done! Repeat procedure for the other side of the car. Your finished wheel should look like this:

Congratulations on installing your 20mm rear spacers!

Finished car should look like this for clearance (non-lowered suspension):

This DIY article was provided by STILLEN customer Mark Lewis of Edmonton, Alberta, Canada.

15mm H&R TRAK+ DRS Front Spacer installation on a 2010 Nissan 370Z

Tools required:

  1. 21mm deep socket for lug nut removal
  2. 2 x (12×1.25) open ended lug nut for stud removal and installation
  3. 21mm open ended wrench to remove brake calipers
  4. 12mm wrench to remove brake line support
  5. Wire or cable ties to support brake caliper while installing spacers
  6. Stack of washers to install studs
  7. 3lb sledge for easy stud removal
  8. Jack stands to support vehicle
  9. Anti-seize compound for back of spacers

Preparation:

Wash vehicle wheels wells and suspension to aid in installation and remove dirt. Remove your spacers from the packaging and check you have all parts.

Installation:

1)  Jack up both sides of the front of your vehicle and position the jack stands to support the front end. Make sure the park brake is set and the vehicle is on a level surface.

2)  Remove the front wheel. You should see this:

3)  Begin by undoing the 12mm brake line support in behind the rotor. It may help to turn the wheel outwards to have easier access. After you remove the brake line support, remove the two 21mm bolts securing the caliper to the rotor. If your rotors are not worn, you should be able to slide them off easily. Support them in place with some wire or cable ties so the brake line is not strained.

4)  The rotor should now slide off the studs. If it is difficult to move, tap it with a RUBBER mallet to loosen it. It should come off easily.

5)  Thread one of the open ended lug nuts onto a stud and tap lightly with the mallet. It should pop out easily. Rotate the hub to allow the stud to be removed.

6)  Insert the new stud from behind the shield and into the hub; you may need to wiggle it a little but it is quite easy.


7)  After the stud is through, slide the washers over the new stud and place an open ended lug nut onto the new stud.

8)  Tighten the new stud into place. Be careful to follow the manufacturers torquing specifications.

9)  The finished hub should look like this when all the studs are in and tightened.

10)  Remount the rotor and lubricate the rear of the spacer with anti-seize compound. Tighten down the spacer and rotor with a couple of washers and the open ended lug nuts.


11)  Remount the brake caliper in the reverse sequence as disassembly and remove the open ended lug nuts and washers. Remount the wheel and torque wheels to manufacturers specs. You are now done! Repeat procedure for the other side of the car. Your finished wheel should look like this:

Congratulations on installing your 15mm front spacers!

Finished car should look like this for clearance (non-lowered suspension):

This DIY article was provided by STILLEN customer Mark Lewis of Edmonton, Alberta, Canada.

The busy schedule for the STILLEN R35 Nissan GT-R has finally finished with the shows and now it’s time to get back to racing!  Team STILLEN will be bringing the orange beast to Virginia City, Nevada for the first annual running of the Spectre 341 Challenge being held June 25-26, 2010.

This event is held on a closed section of Highway 341 that would normally be opened to the public.  Originally started in the early 70’s this event was pioneered by the local Ferrari clubs.  The event ran until 2002 before being shut down.  2010 marks the re-organization of the event

We recently met up with the guys at DSPORT Magazine at a local studio to shoot the STILLEN R35 GT-R for the cover and feature of their July 2010 issue.  We’re happy to announce that this issue is currently on the newsstands, and has been delivered to subscribers!

In addition to getting some fanastic studio shots of the GT-R with the beautiful Ariel Marie, DSPORT also shot Steve Millen’s Championship IMSA 300ZX Twin Turbo

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